Top Chef All-Stars Recap

By David Mumpower

April 12, 2011

You'll never guess who won by these reactions.

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Here are a few notes about the judging for Richard’s dishes. The judges universally adore the amuse-bouche, a dish that (at least technically) won’t count toward the judging since it’s not one of the four required courses. Spike, who is in charge of culinary reconnaissance reports that all of the judges as well as the other All-Stars among the 70 diners lick their plates after the hamachi dish. Dale describes the third dish as Richard at his best. Things are looking good for the favorite. One of the judges makes the point that in terms of creativity, the short rib isn’t impressive yet the flavors dazzled him.

That leaves only the dessert and here is where the final results hangs in the balance. The judges have been split into two groups with one side tasting Richard’s first and Mike’s second with the other group reversing the order. The group that starts with Richard is anchored by Hubert Keller and all of them are dissatisfied with the dish in terms of texture. Spike returns to the kitchen with the intel that “it’s a controversial dish”. Without missing a beat, Spike makes eye contact with Richard to make sure the finalist understands his concern. Then, he strongly suggests that Richard add milk to the next batch to aid the texture/flavor. When the second group reaches the dessert dish, Oprah’s personal chef (and former Top Chef Masters contestant) Art Smith describes the ice cream as “very subtle”, deeming the dish a success. Spike, who didn’t even want to be there, may have offered the advice that wins Richard Top Chef.




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Mike begins with a first course of spiced beets with mozzarella, truffle & chocolate vinaigrette. The second dish is halibut with kumquat marmalade, cauliflower puree & pancetta crumbs. Mike follows this with a third course of braised pork shoulder with pepperoni sauce, roasted cabbage & turnips. His dessert is a rosemary caramel custard & pine nuts with citrus, celery & apple.

Here are a few notes about the judging for Mike’s dishes. New Top Chef Masters host/pretty boy Curtis Stone is impressed by the composed nature of the first course. Tom simply states, “I think Mike is off to a good start.” The second course is the halibut Tom describes as the best piece of fish he’s had since the show began. The third dish includes pepperoni sauce and, as my wife describes it, this is the flavor that would cause Gail Simmons to leave her husband for Mike Isabella. The taste of it does something to her, the very definition of a hypnotic flavor. The only moderate misstep is that the dessert is “slightly overcooked but also cooked too fast”. Everyone agrees this is his weakest dish “by far”. Given the quality of the first three courses, that doesn’t even guarantee it’s a bad dish, simply one that lacks by comparison. Both Richard and Mike have performed with aplomb in this, the biggest stage in the history of Top Chef.

“I would venture to say the best food we’ve had in any finale.” – Tom Colicchio

The judges lavish praise upon the contestants with Gail going the extra mile to eye-bang Mike over the pepperoni sauce. If Gail’s new husband wants to make their marriage work, he is going to have to learn that recipe. What becomes clear as the judges talk with the finalists and confer with each other is that Richard won the first course (remember that the amuse-bouche doesn’t count in the judging). The fish dish is largely a draw with some favoring Mike, but Tom gives the slight nod to Richard. The third course with braised entrees is clearly a win for Mike. That makes the score 1-1 for sure with the second course being up for debate. Similarly, the dessert course came down to whether the judge was in the first or second group. Those who had the less milky ice cream favored Mike while those who sampled the Spike-improved version liked it better.

While discussing the judges’ comments, Mike and Richard both feel as if Mike may be in position to pull off the huge upset. Alas, they have forgotten that the judges always make comments that keep the viewers as well as the chefs guessing regarding the results. In this instance, Richard’s overall meal was superior to Mike’s, and the majority of the judges realized that after some discussion. Ergo, Richard Blais, the favorite from the start of the competition, becomes the champion of Top Chef All Stars, a season that will stand as the finest composition of Top Chef contestants until the inevitable season when returning champions face off. We are probably two to four seasons away from that one. Until then, Richard Blais is the reigning king of Top Chef.


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